Valley Of Giants Trip Guide

When To Go

• Winter (Great): From December to February, temperatures are lowest.‍
• Autumn & Spring (Decent): The shoulder season of November and March are slightly cool but are not as ideal.
• Summer (Avoid): From April to October, it is hot and dry with July temperatures reaching 40 degrees celsius.

We spent 2 days climbing here at the end of December.

The Climbing

Descend into the river-shaped valley 20 minutes from the furthest possible parking area and you will see the towering blocks sitting in a vast limestone plain surrounded by pools, running streams, and date palm.

About 50 routes ranging from V0 to V9 have been established here with approximately 20 put up during a 2015 trip by Philippe Ribière, Dan Bates, and Read Macadam. Be sure to watch their video for trip inspiration!

The style of the bouldering here is diverse with technical slabs, powerful overhangs, and many highballs (above 5m) on water sculpted limestone that is not sharp yet with enough friction for solid climbing.

Due to the height of the boulders, many of the problems will need more crash pads and we encourage you to check out the descent before jumping on the route.

For a warm up, Fistful of Meat (V3/6A) and The Villager (V4/6A+) on the Village Boulder were great to start on getting accustomed to the climbing in the area. Further downstream, Up on Bricks (V3/6A) is another route with nice flow.

On the other side of the Village Boulder is the classic Ali Baba and His 40 Fleas (V8/7B) which requires a balance of precision and power to stick the 3 bad crimps after passing the lip.

Intermediate climbers who enjoy steeper terrain will like The Beginning Boulder. The Beginning (V5/6B) had an interesting transition from powerful moves on an overhang to delicate sequences on sloping holds, delivering a satisfying problem.

Those looking for a challenge can hop on another advanced classic called Spino-rama (V8/7B) just next to The Beginning. Underclings with funky feet move into a challenging cross on a poor pinch before the merging into the same route for the finish.

Topo

For bouldering, the only guidebook is Oman: Bouldering written by Jamie Moss and Gary Goldfinger. It is only available online on Rakkup.

Don't hesitate to reach out to us for more information about climbing in Oman. We're open to share whatever we know or point you to the right person.

Transportation

Getting there

📍Valley of Giants Google Map location

One of the allures of Umq Bir is it's untouched nature offering a sense of exploration and discovery for those willing to venture into this secluded part of Oman. Mobile reception is intermittent even while driving in and there is no reception at the crag.

The closest city with an international airport is Muscat, a 3.5h drive away. From Dubai, its an 8h drive not including the time to cross the border. Qalhat is the town just on the highway before turning onto the track for Umq Bir.

From there it's 1.5h of driving off road, passing by a few small villages, before the exciting cliffside steep descent on sometimes loose rocks down to the valley. Given the quality of the roads and the terrain, you will need a 4x4 car to get there.

That said, you’re never completely alone—friendly villagers frequently pass through while tending their farms nearby and can lend a hand if you find yourself in need of assistance.

When driving from the UAE, it's ideal to stop for the night at a guesthouse or camp on the beach instead of driving all the way to the crag in one go. This helps avoid doing the off road drive in the dark.

Moving around

Once at the parking spot in the valley bowl, the only way to access the crag is by walking about 20mins down into the valley. Look for the path next to the big tree on the right of the last open area.

Petrol stations

Remember to fill up your tank before taking the track from Qalhat as there are no other petrol stations. The closest one is probably the Shell on the road to Sur.

‍

Accommodation

At the crag

Camping around the parking spot is the best for avoiding the long drive out of the valley especially when its dark.

Before the crag

Hotels and home stays are readily available around Sur and even Qalhat. Camping on the beach is also a good option at Tiwi's Pebble beach or Fins campsite.

We stayed at a motel just outside Sur for the night before driving into Umq Bir.

‍

Gear

Crash pads - There are no known crash pad rentals in Oman so bring your own. Many of the boulders (being Giants) are highball, so you need at least 3 crash pads to be safe!

Camping - The closest stores will be in Sur town. Bring the required camping gear to be self sufficient while off the grid. Best to also have basic vehicle rescue equipment should your car get stuck or have a blown tire.

Food

Just outside Sur is a Lulu hypermarket as well as more options in the town for stocking up. To save time, it's better to have everything necessary before leaving from the UAE or Muscat.

Once off the main highway, there are no more stores or restaurants although the kind and hospitable locals would probably offer tamir (dates), kahwa (arabic coffee with cardamom) or even a full meal.

Oman is known to have great seafood so be sure to find a restaurant to savor it. One way to do this is stopping by Muscat for a late lunch on the way back to Dubai.

We stopped at a decent casual place called 7 Fishes though there are plenty of good options around the city.

Rest Day Activities

Because of Umq Bir's remoteness, these are not actually activities to be done on a rest day from climbing but stops that can be added to make it a more holistic trip in Oman.

Knowing some Arabic allows for more conversation with the Omani's living at the village right next to the crag.

Other places to visit around Oman:

1. Muscat - A serene coastal city with whitewashed architecture blended with rich cultural Omani heritage. ‍
2. Pebble Beach - A cool place to camp for the night on a beach full of pebbles.‍
3. Bimmah Sinkhole - Go for a swim on a hot day in this large sinkhole filled by the sea. ‍
4. Other climbing sites - Been a mountainous country, there are numerous other sport climbing areas including Bilad Sayt.

With it's mountainous landscape and scenic coastal towns, Oman certainly has plenty to offer for adventure seekers and those who love the outdoors.